A Masterclass in Gastropub Excellence: Lunch at The Dry Dock Hotel
Wrttten by Axel Ritenis/Editor and Posted on Sunday 25 January,2026
*Please not an earlier version of this article which was compiled with the assistance of Gemini AI contained some false of misleading information,..which has now been corrected.
Location: 22 Cameron St, Balmain NSW 2041
Visit Date: Friday Lunch 23 january,2026
There is a specific kind of magic in finding a “local” that operates with the precision of a world-class bistro while maintaining the soul of a historic pub. My Friday lunch at The Dry Dock Hotel in Balmain was exactly that—a masterclass in hospitality, fire-driven cooking, and liquid indulgence.
The Best Seat in the House
While the light-filled dining room is stunning, the real prize is a seat at the Bar, overlooking the high-octane open kitchen. From this vantage point, you can watch the culinary team operate with a quiet, professional intensity. Watching them navigate the pass for the discriminating Friday lunch crowd is as entertaining as the meal itself. Throughout the meal, the atmosphere was transportive; I felt as though I had stepped off the streets of Balmain and into a top-tier French Brasserie. The energy, the service, and the aromas from the kitchen all contribute to an experience that feels world-class.
The Menu: Fire, Sea, and Soil
The Dry Dock is famous for having what is arguably the best Pub Wine List in NSW (recently honored with the prestigious ‘Three Glasses’ award). However, for those with a personal collection, they offer a brilliant BYO policy on Mondays and Tuesdays. It is a rare opportunity to bring something special from your own cellar to pair with a menu of this caliber.
The menu truly shines with its casual yet elevated offerings including seafood and oyters.I have been reliably informed by a Foodie colleague that the Seafood and the freshly shucked Oysters are great too if a little Pricey for a “Journalistic hack “.
It appeared to me that the Seafood, is a core pillar of the experience here. The Oysters were pristine—briny, expertly shucked, and served at the perfect temperature. It’s clear they source only the highest-grade bivalves.
Of course when a Restaurant uses the state of the art JOSPER GRILL ,..one can safely assume that they do great steaks too.From what I saw in the kithchen they looked pretty damn good if a little pricey.
The menu truly shines with its casual yet elevated offerings. I sampled the Dry Dock Hamburger, ordered medium-rare, which was a revelation. Served with sharp French mustard and golden, crispy frites, the burger was juicy and perfectly seasoned. It paired magnificently with a glass of Piazzano Chianti—a blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo, and Colorino from Tuscany.
As a long-time fan of the classic Frescobaldi Nipozzano, I have exceptionally high standards for Chianti. This stems from a career as a wine journalist, which has afforded me certain privileges—not least of which was a Top 50 Italian tasting in the Italian Dolomites in 2008, where I had the honor of meeting the titans of Tuscan viticulture: both the Marquises Antinori and Frescobaldi. Having discussed the winemaking craft with the masters themselves—(including an interview with the great but humble Antinori regarding classic Tuscan winemaking and the complexities of IGT rules)—I discovered the Piazzano was right up there. It was smooth, flavorful, and possessed that “juicy” quality that cuts through the richness of a prime beef burger so elegantly.
However, the undisputed star of the show remains the Josper Grill. There is a distinct, smoky sophistication that only charcoal can impart to meat. The kitchen is led by a top-tier chef in full command of this legendary Spanish grill, which reaches the searing temperatures necessary to produce world-class results. The trick with grilling Steak and high-quality beef, is to ensure it is perfectly seasoned, and grilled on intense heat that locks in the juices while providing a deep, umami-rich crust.
A Grand Finale
To finish, we opted for the Fondue, accompanied by a vibrant Mango Sorbet. The contrast between the rich, velvety chocolate and the icy, tropical punch of the mango was the perfect palate cleanser after the robust flavors of the grill.
No meal of this caliber is complete without a proper digestif. I paired a perfectly pulled Espresso Doppia with the Red Mill ‘Dry Dock’ Rum. Produced locally, this rum is a revelation. Sipping it with soda , I found it to be a sophisticated spirit that easily rivals a vintage Armagnac or a top-shelf Grappa—complex, smooth, and the ideal bookend to a long lunch.
Looking Ahead
This magnificent pub project is led by the highly accomplished and respected James Ingram, Managing Director of Peninsula Hospitality. During my visit, I also had the pleasure of meeting the charming and hospitality professional Rebecca, whose expertise ensures the service matches the high standards of the kitchen.
I am looking forward to my next visit to further explore the rich history of this landmark venue. There is still so much to graze through on the menu—from more classic dishes in the celebrated Seafood section to further explorations of the highly acclaimed steaks emerging from that Josper grill.
The Verdict
The Dry Dock has successfully returned “The Hat” to Balmain. Whether you are there for the 470-bottle wine list, the theatre of the kitchen, or the smoky perfection of the Josper grill, it remains the peninsula’s premier dining destination.
Highly Recommended for: Long Friday lunches, wine connoisseurs, and anyone who appreciates the art of cooking over fire or great Brasserie type service and atmosphere reminiscent of Paris.-but ironically it is quintessential Australian !
